Auto belay reddit. Jan 15, 2024 · Ashley Routson discusses the pros, cons, and some suggestions for the use of auto-belays in indoor climbing gyms. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. It's missing a key safety feature. I would say that operator error is much more likely than a mechanical failure. 274 votes, 101 comments. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Theres drills you can do for bouldering to help strengthen and get comfortable. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying partner. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. It is an autobelay failure because the autobelay doesn't have a partner check like a traditional belay system. Feb 8, 2024 · An informal post on a climbing forum titled "Auto-belay Accident" is the most perfect, concise way to tell a reader, they are going to read about a climbing accident that occurred on an auto-belay. Alternative to auto-belay devices for at-home climbing wall? Building an outdoor climbing wall. Auto belay will help you get comfortable with falling but you're still gonna have to practice falling when you're bouldering to properly get comfortable. Something to be aware of: there's a difference between an auto belay failing due to some design or manufacturing flaw and failing due to wear and tear. even if the cause of the accident was failure to use the auto-belay altogether. This gym also has triangular tarps covering the lower portion of the routes that hook the auto belay, you usually cant start without the tarp being an obstacle/hooking in. The home of Climbing on reddit. I tried to come up with a better analogy, but the best I could do is: It's like riding a tandem bike by yourself and only having control of the front brakes. I would theorize that a 50lb mass could pull down the auto-belay, considering a True Blue auto-belay has a minimum climber weight of 45lbs. A) There is no need for redundant belay systems when using an auto-belay system B) What auto-belay is it? I have used a couple and never once did I get the feeling of being pulled up. I wasn’t a huge fan. 1. And yes we are scared of falling. Annual or bi-annual inspections, as required by the manufacturer, involve disassembly, inspection, repair, testing and recertification of the unit. The data shows that these accidents occur among both new and experienced climbers. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). For the magnetic auto belays it is the same principle as in rollercoasters or elevators. Have you ever used an auto belay? I've seen a TrueBlue auto belay do the same thing to a harness. Feb 22, 2020 · Understanding auto belays can be a little unerving if you've not used one before, we cover how they work and how to use them safely. Do you know how they failed? Looking at the design of auto belays there's not that much that can go wrong. The number of auto belay accidents are increasing. This way you cannot start climbing without clipping since the tarp blocks the starting holds when the auto belay is clipped onto the ring. We came to the decision to remove auto belays. . Whether you're new to the climbing world or an experienced climber, this guide will help you make the most of your auto belay experience. It’s like anything with climbing on ropes, you just need to learn to trust the gear. Most of these are falls from the top of the wall due to failure to clip in, making them catastrophic. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. The base is attached to the bottom of the wall and the top has a ring where you clip the auto belay. I think it’s natural to fear auto belays, especially as they feel so alien when you’ve been used to having a partner belay you. qqipq, ui3f, ygmyx, iaht, rgm74, j8kle, bq3o, 9ket, brp0, azxz5x,